SEPTEMBER 2014: Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2008 (Canberra District, NSW, Australia)
One of the striking differences between Australian and American wine production is how much more dispersed and varied is Australia’s production of world-class wine. Sure, the US produces wine in every state of the union, but when is the last time you’ve had Missourian Norton? Though the Australian populace is primarily huddled around the coasts of the continent from 3 o’clock to 8 o’clock on the clockface, fantastic wine can be found throughout this span. There is local wine nearly everywhere in which to have pride. This month’s feature is from a producer of world-class wine, close to the country’s capital city.
Clonakilla was founded when the Ireland-born John Kirk pioneered replanting vines just north and outside of the tiny Australian Capital Territory. This family-run business now produces one of Australia’s most acclaimed and iconic red wines. They take cues from Côte-Rôtie in France’s Northern Rhône Valley, where the wines tend to be meaty and dark, but often surprisingly floral. These wines are comprised primarily with Syrah (aka Shiraz) and, curiously enough, a small portion of a very fragrant white wine grape called Viognier.
This month we feature the X-Factor behind one of the world’s great wine styles, but one perfectly suited to star on its own. Clonakilla’s Viognier was grown at 600 meters elevation in New South Wales where cooler temperatures preserve the important acidity and freshness in this wine.
This wine is dry and quite full-bodied with creamy richness and refreshing acidity. Time spent in wood and the bottle adds more complexity and softness to this inherently aromatic variety. Though not as floral as in its youth, there is deliciously rich citrus, peach and honey. The oak aging lends a subtle piney quality with spice.