Does Shiraz from Australia seem underwhelming in its overwhelmingness these days?  Much of the world fell in love with the ripe, juicy and teeth-staining stuff a decade or two ago.  But recently, as with the buttery and oaky California Chardonnays, there has been interest in finding the seemingly long-lost concept of restraint.  Don’t get us wrong, we love the mouth-coating richness emanating from the fruit of gnarled and historic old-vine (over a century!) Shiraz and Grenache vines in South Australia, but variety is the spice of life.

This month’s wine shows the error of thinking of Australia as only a mono-stylistic producer of conventional, oaky and rich wines.  Jamsheed’s winemaker/owner, Gary Mills, plies his craft in south-east Australia’s Yarra Valley, but seeks to feature the diversity of many cooler climate locations throughout Victoria.  Wines produced from these more mild areas generally show less brash ripeness, but more firm and fresh characteristics.

His methods could be described as non-interventional; his goal being to let the inherent qualities of an essentially agricultural product speak louder.  Gary’s greatest influence is Paul Draper, the legendary winemaker of Ridge Vineyards in California.  For two years as Paul’s right-hand man, he learned to work with indigenous yeast and whole-cluster ferments.  Now with his own label, Gary works with distinctive vineyard locations of his native land to share the great diversity it produces!!

This is a medium-plus bodied Syrah with a decidedly firmer structure.  Quintessential aromas of black pepper and dark, meaty fruit speak of the hands-off approach Gary uses in production.  A touch of ripeness gives this wine a familiar softness and can connect you to memories of more overgrown wines, while the firm tannic structure clearly define this as a step in a new direction.  Enjoy this wine with full-flavored meats and heavier savory sauces or just a sense of adventure!